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Geographically, Coconino County is part of the
Colorado Plateau, a generally high wooded upland cut
by many deep drainages. The elevation ranges from
under 2,000 feet along the Colorado River at the
western boundary of the county to 12,670 foot
Humphrey's Peak in the San Francisco Mountains north
of Flagstaff, the highest point in Arizona. Most of
the county is between 4,000 and 8,000 feet elevation
although precipitation ranges from less than 10
inches annually in the eastern portion of the county
to over 25 inches in the Kaibab National Forest
north of the Grand Canyon. The primary rivers in the
northern and central portions of the county are the
Colorado River and its tributaries, Kanab Creek and
Little Colorado River, while the Verde River and its
tributary, Oak Creek, drain the southern portion.
Vegetation ranges from sparse grasslands to
pinon-juniper scrub to ponderosa pine forest in most
of the county to Douglas fir and spruce forests in
the areas above 8,000 feet.
Geologically, the Plateau is very old and relatively
stable. The Vishnu Schist in the bottom of the Grand
Canyon has been radio metrically dated to two
billion years old. Above that are layers upon layers
of sedimentary rocks, interrupted occasionally by
lava flows, igneous intrusions, and erosion
unconformities. In Arizona the boundaries of the
Plateau are clearly defined by the Grand Wash Cliffs
in Mohave County on the west and the Mogollon Rim
which forms part of the southern boundary of
Coconino County. The current landforms are the
result of millennia of weathering by wind and water.
Resistant layers of sandstone often form the tops of
cliffs and mesas, protecting the softer underlying
layers of shale. Porous layers of limestone minimize
surface runoff in some regions since the water sinks
into underground aquifers instead. Volcanoes have
produced many of the higher mountains, notably the
San Francisco Mountains. Sunset Crater National
Monument is the site of the most recent volcanic
activity in Arizona. The cinder cones in the
monument erupted around 1065 C. E. and spread a
layer of fertile volcanic ash on the surrounding
countryside which improved farming for the local
peoples.
The earliest
inhabitants of the area were nomadic hunters from
the Great Plains who visited the area of the Little
Colorado River between 10,000 and 13,000 years ago.
Around 5000 B. C. E. the Anasazi Culture developed
and started spreading across the Colorado Plateau
region. Around 900 C. E. the Sinagua Culture
developed in the vicinity of present-day Flagstaff.
By about 1400 C. E. both groups were breaking up and
disappeared from the region. By the arrival of the
Spanish explorers in the 1600's, the tribes in the
northern portion of present-day Arizona consisted of
the Hopi, Havasupai, Pai (Yavapai and Walapai), and
the Paiutes. Later the Navajo moved into the region
from New Mexico.
The Spanish
explored the region, but made no permanent
settlements in modern-day Coconino County. Garcia
Lopez de Cardenas was sent by Coronado to explore
the "great river" west of the Hopi settlements and
his expedition reached the Grand Canyon in 1540, but
could not find a way into the canyon and returned to
the Zuni pueblos where Coronado was. Several other
explorers also started out from the settlements in
Nuevo Mexico: Don Antonio de Espejo in 1583 crossed
the Little Colorado and went as far west as the
Verde River before turning back, Farfan in 1598
retraced much of Espejo's trail, Onate in 1604
crossed through on his way to the modern Bill
Williams River which he followed to the Colorado and
thence to the Gulf of California. In the 1770s
Franciscan missionaries Silvestre Velez de Escalante
and Francisco Atanasio Dominguez crossed the
northern-eastern portion of Coconino County while
missionary Fray Francisco Garces wandered through
much the region south of the Grand Canyon.
During the
1850s, three U. S. military expeditions crossed
through the region between the Little Colorado River
and the upper reaches of the Verde River. Captain
Lorenzo Sitgreaves of the Army Corps of
Topographical Engineers mapped a possible wagon road
to California through the area in 1851. Lieutenant
Amiel W. Whipple surveyed a possible railroad route
in 1853-1854. Ex-Navy Lieutenant Edward F. Beale was
the leader of the next expedition in 1857. This was
the famous "Camel Experiment" by which the military
determined that camels were quite well suited to
surviving in the "Great American Desert." Beale
retraced much of Whipple's survey and the wagon road
built along the survey route and used by some
California-bound travelers bore Beale's name.
Lieutenant Joseph C. Ives crossed the region from
west to east on his way from the Colorado River to
Fort Defiance (on the Arizona-New Mexico boundary).
He made several side trips along the way, including
one going down into the Grand Canyon with several
Indian guides. After the Civil War was over, Major
John W. Powell spent three years (1869-1871)
exploring the Colorado River between Green River,
Wyoming, and the western end of the Grand Canyon.
During the
1870s, Mormon settlers came into the region from the
north. Their first settlement in Coconino County was
at Lee's Ferry on the Colorado River which was a
stopover on the trip to their towns on the upper
Little Colorado River in what is now Navajo and
Apache Counties. Fredonia, Jacob's Lake, Tuba City
and Mormon Lake in Coconino County are among the
towns first settled by Mormons.
With the
1880s the railroads and more settlers came to
Coconino County. In 1883 the Atlantic & Pacific
(later known as the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe)
completed a line across Arizona to the Colorado
River (and later to points west). Logging and cattle
ranching developed as major industries in the area.
In 1887 a branch line was started in Flagstaff to
reach the mining areas around Globe, but it was
never completed. In 1901 the Grand Canyon Railway
was opened to provide service from Williams to the
South Rim as tourism became a more profitable
industry.
Starting in
1887 citizens in what was then northern Yavapai
County attempted to have Frisco County created with
the seat at Flagstaff. However, they remained part
of Yavapai County until 1891 when Coconino County
was formed with Flagstaff as the county seat.
Although there was later an unsuccessful attempt to
create Hunt County (with Williams as the county
seat) from the western portion of Coconino, neither
the boundaries nor the seat of Coconino have changed
since it was formed.
Coconino
County had a population of 75,008 people in the 1980
census, up substantially from the 48,326 people
recorded in the 1970 census, but still placing the
county in sixth place compared to the other
counties. In 1900, for comparison, Coconino County
had a mere 5,514 people and had increased to 23,910
by 1950. As of 2020 the county had a
population of 145,101.
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